Abroad and at Home; Practical Hints for Tourists

_ANNOUNCEMENTS._

ESTABLISHED 1850.

INMAN LINE.

UNITED STATES AND ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS

CITY OF PARIS, 10,500 Tons. CITY OF NEW YORK, 10,500 “ CITY OF BERLIN, 5,491 Tons. CITY OF CHICAGO, 6,000 “ CITY OF CHESTER, 4,770 Tons.

New York, Queenstown AND Liverpool.

FIRST CABIN PASSAGE from $60 to $650,

ACCORDING TO STEAMER AND LOCATION OF ACCOMMODATIONS.

NOTE.--Round Trip Tickets issued at reduced rates, and the return portion can, if desired, be used by =RED STAR LINE= from Antwerp to New York or Philadelphia.

INTERNATIONAL NAVIGATION CO.,

General Agents,

6 BOWLING GREEN, NEW YORK.

* * * * *

SIMPSON’S

(LIMITED)

DIVAN TAVERN,

103 STRAND,

Opposite Exeter Hall,--LONDON.

The premier Restaurant in the Strand, established upwards of fifty years, which still retains its supremacy for being the house to get the best English Dinner in London at a moderate price. There is also a magnificent Ladies’ Dining Room where ladies can dine in the same style and cost as gentlemen do in the room down stairs. Private rooms for large or small parties.

Noted for Soups, Fish, Entrees and Joints. Saddles of Mutton specially cooked to perfection from 12.30 to 8.30 p.m. Originator of professed Carvers to attend on each customer at separate tables. Matured wines and spirits. The largest stock of any tavern in the kingdom.

E. W. CATHIE, MANAGING DIRECTOR.

* * * * *

LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY

THE OLD ROUTE IN THE OLD COUNTRY. THE TOURISTS’ FAVORITE.

IRISH AND SCOTCH ROYAL MAIL ROUTE.

SHORTEST AND QUICKEST FROM

=LIVERPOOL= (Lime Street Station) to =LONDON= (Euston Station). under FOUR AND A-HALF HOURS =to GLASGOW= (Central Station), in FIVE AND THREE-QUARTER HOURS.

=QUEENSTOWN to LONDON via Dublin and Holyhead=, in SIXTEEN HOURS AND TEN MINUTES.

* * * * *

=Baggage Checked Through from New York to London.=

=At LIVERPOOL, Family Omnibuses= from Landing Stage, and =Special Trains= from Alexandra Dock to Lime Street Station and Hotel.

=NORTH WESTERN HOTEL, Lime Street Station, Liverpool=, the best and largest--the hotel for Americans.

=SPECIAL TRAINS from Liverpool to London= when requisite to make close connection with steamers arriving from America.

=Elegant Vestibule Drawing-Room Cars without extra charge.= Compartments with lavatories, and private saloon and family carriages for parties without extra charge.

=Sleeping Cars= with Compartments and brass Beds, 5s. per berth in addition to first-class fares.

=DINING CARS= on principal trains and “American Specials.”

=Luncheon Baskets= at the principal Stations.

=In LONDON, Family Omnibuses= can be obtained, at the =Euston Hotel= (at the Station), noted for its =Cellar= and its French =Cuisine=, will be found most comfortable.

=THE LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY= has =NOT= abolished Second Class Carriages; passengers to whom economy is an object, but who do not wish to travel Third Class, can combine comfort with economy by traveling Second Class by this line. First and Second Class on all trains. Third Class Carriages on all trains except the =Irish Mails= to and from Dublin.

The Company’s Agents, =Mr. W. STIRLING, at Queenstown=, and =Mr. FRED. W. THOMPSON, at Liverpool=, meet the American Steamers on arrival, and secure omnibuses, seats, saloon carriages, rooms at hotel, and give general information.

=THROUGH TICKETS to London, Glasgow, Paris=, and principal stations in =England=, =Scotland=, =Ireland=, =Wales=, and Continent of Europe.

=TICKETS=, Time Tables and information as to travel and hotels can be obtained from the Company’s Agent, =Mr. D. BATTERSBY, 184 St. James St., Montreal=, and

=Mr. C. A. BARATTONI=, Gen’l Agent for the U. S. and Canada, =852 Broadway=, near Union Square, =New York=.

* * * * *

=G. P. NEELE=, Superintendent of the Line. =London=, Euston Station.

=E. MICHEL=, Foreign Traffic Superintendent.

G. FINDLAY, Gen’l Manager.

* * * * *

HOTEL WINDSOR,

VICTORIA STREET,

Westminster, LONDON, S.W.

Hotel Windsor

VICTORIA STREET, WESTMINSTER, S.W.

_J. R. Cleave & C^o. Proprietors._ ]

Convenient and central location; European or American system; the only hotel in London with Turkish and other baths; elevators; electrically lighted throughout, day and night.

J. R. CLEAVE & CO., PROPRIETORS.

ABROAD AND AT HOME

PRACTICAL HINTS FOR TOURISTS

BY

MORRIS PHILLIPS

EDITOR OF

THE HOME JOURNAL

NEW YORK

NEW YORK BRENTANO’S PARIS WASHINGTON CHICAGO LONDON

COPYRIGHT 1891, BY MORRIS PHILLIPS

THE ART PRESS, DEMPSEY & CARROLL, 36 EAST 14TH STREET, NEW YORK.

TO THE MEMORY OF

GEORGE W. HOWS,

MY FAITHFUL FELLOW-WORKER AND DEAR FRIEND OF MANY YEARS, THIS VOLUME OF SKETCHES IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED.

“_Travel is the great source of true wisdom._” --BEACONSFIELD.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Preface, by the Hon. A. OAKEY HALL, 5

GREAT BRITAIN.

London on Wheels, 9

London Hotels, 24

A Few Boarding Houses, 47

Where to Lunch in London, and Where Not to Lunch, 49

Railway Travelling in England, 59

An Hour with Spurgeon, 67

The Crypt of St. Paul’s, 71

The Queen’s Mews, 74

A Question of Hats, 77

London Oddities, 79

Poverty and Charity in England, 85

Where is Charing Cross? 88

Margate, 89

Two Brighton Hotels, 97

A Visit to Bleak House, 100

Takin’ Notes in Edinboro’ Town, 105

The Burns Monument, 112

Rt. Rev. the Moderator, James MacGregor, D.D., 116

Crossing the Channel, 123

PARIS.

Paris Hotels, 124

Pensions of the First Class, 134

The Restaurants of Paris, 137

The Anglo-American Banking Co., 146

Au Bon Marché, 147

THE UNITED STATES.

GEORGIA--

The De Soto, Savannah, 149

Thomasville, 155

A New Southern Resort, 165

FLORIDA--

A Cuban City (Key West), 171

St. Augustine, 180

About Tampa, 185

CALIFORNIA--

Monterey, 190

San Diego and Coronado, 199

Santa Cruz, 213

Redondo Beach, 221

Pasadena, 225

Los Angeles, 231

The California Hotel, San Francisco, 235

Salt Lake City, 239

The Auditorium Hotel, Chicago, 243

Max O’Rell on American Hotels, 249

PREFACE.

A continuous residence in London of eight years has satisfied me that precisely such a book, so far as it relates to that city, which my friend and once junior legal associate now presents is popularly needed.

That in such respect it will be vitally interesting, even to readers who have never been tourists thither, “goes without saying.” Moreover, there are in these pages views, comments and sights of the “abroad” and “at home” additionally valuable; therefore I gladly accept his invitation to prepare a short preface to this volume of an American M. P. in the Parliament of Letters.

He first broached his idea of papers about London at a capital luncheon, when meeting together there we discussed with palates, forks and wine glasses a tempting _menu_ during the summer of 1890, as guests of Host Vogel, of the new Albermarle Hotel in Piccadilly, at the top of the historic St. James’s street.

We then and there drank success to the M. P. idea, and I doubt not, that every reader of this volume will be disposed to heartily duplicate that toast at his first dinner which shall follow its perusal.

When a tourist first arrives in London, beneath the inviting shadow of the Northwestern Railway station hotel, that is flanked by two smaller inns and its centre pierced by several taverns, or direct from Southampton at the